Part IV.

I am surprised to find a little spa after a short ride through the forest. In the middle of nowhere, I find a spa on the riverbank called RömERbadl. Probably a Roman spa. I use a ramp to dip into the water. But it is so cold in the morning that I am not going to soak my whole body. I am back on the road after a while. The cycling path runs mostly along both banks of the river. It is a pleasant ride, although a strong headwind makes it harder. The path is becoming boring as I approach Innsbruck. The beauty of Innsbruck is a good reward. At first, I did not want to use a tent, but the mosquitoes made the decision for me. A farmer who showed up around 8:30 p.m. did not even bother to get off his tractor and let me rest in peace on his farmland :)

Short showers start as I enter Germany. Luckily, they are only brief, so I keep going and dry out while cycling. The surface of the cycling path changes from paved to off-road gravel. The landscape changes too, and although it is an easy and fast ride, the long, boring sections make me feel bored.

Another day that is almost the same. Here on the cycling path along the rivers, I see more cyclists and also long-distance riders. It is still a long way to the confluence of the Inn and Danube Rivers. The difference between Germany and Austria is hardly visible here. I cross the border several times without even noticing it. A bigger difference is between the cycling paths. The ones in Austria have a better surface and are better marked. I stay overnight approximately 30 kilometres before Passau.

I do not spend much time in Passau and continue along the Danube River into Austria again. Shortly afterwards, I definitely leave the easy cycling path along the riverbanks behind and climb into hilly terrain. The worst part is the first 3.5 kilometres of the climb. After that, it is "only" hilly. As I am in good shape, I would like to reach Bohemia before sunset. I am trying to follow route #5, which is probably marked as Schwarzenbergradweg. It is not so easy; I have to ask local people for directions and, in the end, I enter Germany again for a while. Following the right route is harder than riding up the hills. Dutch hikers who have been hiking all the way from Frankfurt in Germany tell me that I am just a few hundred metres from the border. I stay overnight at the same campsite in Nová Pec. Welcome back to the Czech Republic :)

On my way north, I visit the Lipno Reservoir and Český Krumlov, the second most visited town in the country. While taking a rest in České Budějovice, I receive an SMS from my friend Lucka. I can visit her and stay for the night. The problem is that she lives another 70 kilometres to the north. But it is good motivation, so I hurry to reach her. I pass through Hluboká nad Vltavou with its famous chateau. One of the first new cycling paths, route #12, was built with the help of European funds. The hilly terrain slows me down between Hluboká and Tábor. I lose the cycling path about 30 kilometres before Tábor, so I have to cycle along the busy E55 road.

Well rested, I head towards Kutná Hora. My first thought that I could reach my hometown today soon disappears. It is more than 170 km away, and although my personal record is 186 km, the terrain is hilly and I do not feel like giving it a try. I decide to cover just two-thirds of the distance today and get home tomorrow. I meet another group of Dutch people near Sázava. They left their car in Cheb, the westernmost town in the Czech Republic, and have already cycled more than 800 km around the country. Just before sunset, I relax by a small pond, then cycle another 15 kilometres and, under the cover of darkness, find a place near Poděbrady to sleep under the open sky.

I am lazy in the morning. Wishing to stay longer in my sleeping bag, I listen to music. I am on the road around 8 a.m. and, with "just two hours to go home" on my mind, I pedal on, getting closer to home. My last stop is at the hospital in Jičín, where I visit my friend Honza. I spend another two hours talking with the nurses. I finished my civic service at the hospital just three months ago. I am back home around two in the afternoon.

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